Gasherbrum iv: aleš česen and luka lindič reached north summit

Tell us a bit about your previous trips to the Karakoram. When did you start to set your sights on Gasherbrum IV as an objective?

Luka: I was on an expedition to Pakistan in Last year I was in Pakistan too. With my friend Luka Krajnc we climbed a new route on Biacherahi tower and another m peak before we tried the north ridge of Latok I. But at the time I was already booked forplanning to guide a client on K2. First sight of the mighty Gasherbrum IV. Were you anxious about having to climb Broad Peak before attempting Gasherbrum IV - could it have affected your energy and condition for your main objective?

Luka: The route we wanted to climb on G4 is for sure very difficult. This year has been particularly difficult in Pakistanregarding access and permits. Did you face any issues in acquiring permits and approaching the mountains? Were you surprised at the number of fixed ropes? Is this increasingly an issue in Pakistan, even on less well-travelled mountains? It's just a pity and not respectful to the mountain and to other people who might want to climb it for the climbing itself, not for a trophy.

How well did you cope with this new altitude environment? Luka - did you feel at all prepared from your climbing on Makalu? But it could have been much worse. Now I know that I can function up there and know what to expect next time. Luka: I knew what my weakest points on Makalu were and I knew what to expect. This for sure helped me during preparation.

I came back very satisfied because I saw how much I have improved over the last few years. Most of the time I felt good. Our first bivy on first acclimatisation climb below Gasherbrum 4. You dealt incredibly well with adverse weather conditions - particularly on the descent from Gasherbrum IV - and seemed to make the right decisions at the right time. Were there moments where your opinions differed, or were you in agreement as a team?

How to justify the risk to continue or when to turn around. We know each other quite well, and I can say that we both have a very similar approach for risk management. Therefore there was never any big disagreement and if I were to be in the same situation again, I would act the same. You have climbed together on the North face of Hagshu.Basecamp to Basecamp the trio spent seven days climbing two-thirds of the ridge before cutting right and heading up the north face to reach the summit.

The company, definitely among the most extraordinary of recent years and not only The boys will be back in Slovenia in a week: stay with us for all updates! This translation led some news outlets to report that the full North Ridge had been climbed, but earlier this morning editor Anna Piunova at Mountain. For us was logical safe line like this. It took us 7 full days round trip. That would mean the team climbed roughly 5, feet of the full 8,foot North Ridge, before moving onto a different line.

A whisper from the summit. The quartet was thwarted a mere — feet from the summit when Jeff Lowe became terribly sick and the team had to descend. They were back on the ground twenty-six days after starting.

In the forty years since at least twenty teams have attempted the line, though none have succeeded.

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The mountain had been attempted three times previously, all from the south, we chose the North Ridge as the finest and most direct line to the summit. It also appeared to be the safest route, perhaps the only one on the peak. After some delays and a long walk to Basecamp, we spent three days reconnoitering the route, packing loads, and resting.

We planned to climb alpine-style, with none of the tedious buildup of fixed ropes, camps and supplies common to most Himalayan ventures. Nevertheless, we did stack the odds a little in our favor with 17 days of food, eight ropes to allow some flexibility in campsite selectionfull winter bivouac gear, and a large selection of hardware, pounds in all.

We stayed on the climb for a total of 26 days, failing to reach the summit by or feet. Half of this time was spent in storms, one low on the route and the other near the top. The climbing was magnificent, ranging from 5. We spent four nights above 21, feet on tiny ledges hacked out of the ice, including one in a storm on the descent, the most horrible night I have ever spent in the mountains. Jeff became very ill at our highest camp, a snow cave at 22, feet, but managed to get down under his own power.Friday, July 29, We finally have an update from Slovenian duo about the most anticipated climb of the season.

They climbed Northwest Ridge between July 23rd and 28th. Due to unfavorable conditions, they revised their plan and decided to attempt Northwest Ridge, not West Face as originally intended.

The duo's descent was complicated by heavy snow. They made it back to BC on 28th; happy, exhausted and emaciated. They are now set to start the return journey. They made two acclimatization trips, first spending a night in C1 m and next sleeping at the altitude of around m.

The two climbers summited Broad Peak on July 12th. They were first climbers to reach Broad Peak summit this season. Korean Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won repeated the route in The Spaniards stopped at a sub-peak between North and Main Summits.

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K2 First Attempt Expedition. History of Winter Climbing K2. Follow by Email. Search This Blog. Powered by Blogger. Directly below the summit is west face or Shining Wall.

gasherbrum iv: aleš česen and luka lindič reached north summit

G-IV as seen from Baltoro Glacier.Having some distance is usually even better. Like this you have some time to 'digest' things a bit. Poor conditions forced the duo to change plans, and they made a five-day, alpine style ascent of the difficult NW Ridge to the North Summit of Gasherbrum IV. Broad Peak - your first er? Luka: It was a really good way to acclimatise.

Although most people might think that the effort required to climb an er could be a bit too much for acclimatisation, I believe that if we had felt too tired after climbing the normal route on Broad Peak in relatively normal conditions, it would have meant we had nothing to do on the line we wanted to try on G4. If you want to climb such a route like the one we wanted to on G4, acclimatizing like this shouldn't be a problem.

I saw Broad Peak as a final check. Firstly, it is high enough probably a bit too high to acclimatise well enough and, more importantly, it's a small goal in itself. This was very good for motivation and it kept the acclimatisation phase interesting, which can sometimes be a bit dull.

In you Luka got to m of the summit of Makalu on the so-called normal route. How did that feel back then and how did Broad Peak feel in comparison now? Luka: I was definitely much less experienced on the expedition to Makalu. I think we were strong enough to climb Makalu's normal route at that time. We got nervous when we saw a weather window forecast. We were afraid it might be the only one and decided to try to go to the summit, even though we had not acclimatized well. It was a very good lesson.

In the years after that expedition I gained lots of experience, endurance and mental strength. Especially since you were the only ones to summit this season Luka: This doesn't say a lot. It depends on who the other people are trying the mountain.

It wasn't easy.

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Out of interest, how has your training changed over the years in preparation for these giants? Now I think more about how to target my weaknesses while training. So for this expedition, we both did lots of kilometers of not particularly technical climbing in mountains in order to train general endurance.

We also did a lot of training together, which is an important motivation factor. Having said that, I did not have a very strict training plan and I kept all the diversity that alpinism has to offer.

I don't believe you can follow a very precise training plan for alpinism as a marathon runner can.

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At least, I don't think it would work for me. Gasherbrum IV was your main goal. Just look at that face around pm!

gasherbrum iv: aleš česen and luka lindič reached north summit

Do I need to say more? Now I know the descent, which can help a lot especially if you need to descend in bad weather like we had. I am already thinking about how and when I will go back.

gasherbrum iv: aleš česen and luka lindič reached north summit

Just when you were ready to start, at ABC, snowfall forced you to change plans… Luka: It wasn't the forecast snow that changed our plans. It was the 20 cm of fresh snow the fell during that day. You don't start climbing up an m couloir that gets sun in midday in conditions like that. Our decision was very good. Day 1, from m to m proved exhausting, both physically and mentally. Yet you continued.Hagshu north face, Indian Himalaya. Slovenian Route - Triglav North Face. Bernese Oberland Ski Touring.

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Aleš Česen

Via Ferratas in Dolomites On my first visit inI climbed several routes in Trango Towers together with my brother Nejc. It was extremely successful expedition with difficult rock climbing but not extreme height. With Luka this was my first expedition and we summited K7 west summit after climbed very difficult Prezelj-House-Anderson route. At the time, this route was for me my most difficult and technical climb in big mountains so far. After these good memories on my two previous expeditions in Pakistan I was really looking forward for my third visit.

Although I was a bit nervous about climbing on altitude close and above magical m, since my highest summit so far was just a few meter above m. First part of the trek was for me bringing back the good memories from my expedition in Trango Towers already 10 years ago.

But once we climbed on the ice of Baltoro glacier, there was only one thing left in my mind and my sight as well.

The magnificent Gasherbrum IV, which was standing on the very end of the valley of Baltoro glacier, and slightly higher Broad Peak, just left from the Gasherbrum. When we reached Concordia, the mighty K2 completed the outstanding ambient we were hiking in. I and Luka, we were already happy just being in such scenery, let alone the fact we were going to climb in it.

Acclimatization After a day of sorting things around our base camp below the Shinning Wall we were off towards Gasherbrum for our first tour. No heavy expectations and no heavy backpacks.

We headed below left side of the west face, where the Korean route from begins. For acclimatization we spent the first night on a glacier plateau on altitude m, and the following night about meters higher.Za aklimatizacijo sta se To acclimatise, they climbed Broad Peak m on 12 Julybeing the only climbers to do so this year. On 26 July during their attempt to climb the Gasherbrum IV, they climbed its North Summit m along the demanding Northwest Ridge, which is only the fourth ascent along this highly technical route.

They arrived to Pakistan on 15 June, and two weeks later they reached the base camp under Broad Peak. They acclimatized with two climbs, and as the first climbers this season they summited Broad Peak, the twelfth highest mountain in the world, on July A few metres higher, but technically much less demanding, Broad Peak was only an acclimatization climb for the Slovenian duo. The main objective of their expedition, which was sponsored also by the Alpine Association of Slovenia, was the ascent to Gasherbrum IV m along the mighty west face, also known as Shining Wall.

Steeply rising more than three thousand metres above the Baltoro Glacier, this legendary wall is considered one of the finest and most demanding climbing challenges.

But due to unfavourable conditions, the Slovenians decided to climb along Northwest Ridge to North Summit of Gasherbrum IV mwhich was only the fourth ascent along this route. The climb was accomplished between 23 and 26 July in alpine style and without the use of supplemental oxygen.

gasherbrum iv: aleš česen and luka lindič reached north summit

They safely returned to the base camp during a heavy snowfall on 28 July. Unfortunately, the forecast period of good weather was too short for a serious attempt in such terrain. Therefore, we redirected our energy to a slightly less complex terrain in the northwest ridge of the mountain. The conditions during the climb confirmed that we had made a good call. On the day when we reached North Summit, bad weather began to overtake us. Only our fast responsiveness and motivation enabled us to carry out this kind of climb in such a short period.

During the entire expedition, the most problems were caused by loose snow, which required a lot of exhausting wading. Since the weather was so bad, we were actually considering to return before reaching North Summit.

Luka Lindič takes on Gasherbrum IV

It is unbelievable that on North Summit we were even basking in the sun for a few minutes, but during descent we were again caught by bad weather. The descent was very demanding, always in very poor visibility and threatened by numerous loose snow avalanches.

The steep West Face had stood derelict untilwhen the Austrian-Polish climbing team consisting of Robert Schauer and Voytek Kurtyka decided to ascend it.

It took them nine days to climb the wall in alpine style, but the worsening of weather conditions and lack of food prevented them from reaching the summit. The first to climb West Face over the central rib and to reach the summit was the Korean climbing team in Climbed routes: Broad Peak, along the Austrian route Of course the guys are pleased with how far they reached on this treacherous route, in difficult conditions.

They originally planned to take a new route, via the North West face but that was completely impossible in bad weather. Before tackling the G4 they scaled Broad Peak, making them the only team to successfully summit that mountain this season. If it makes you tired, then you are not prepared enough!

It took away a bit for sure, but we benefited lots more than we lost. A climb like that is also important from a mental point of view, as a final check. The weather in the area meant the Alpine style of climbing the pair used gave them an advantage over other teams climbing differently.

Now, it seems this is how it will be in Pakistan.

Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview

The weather is not stable and you get a window of maybe two days. That was our advantage this time. However, they managed to climb through the weather and pushed on until they made the North Summit. On one side you know you will not climb G4 but you know inside you did the maximum you could.

It was a cool experience after struggling all day to reach the North summit we had sun for a few minutes, we could even see the summit for a few minutes. The guys had to rappel back down to avoid being swept away by avalanches. For full functionality, please enable Javascript. You may also like. Show more: SuuntoClimb.


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